Delhi is famous for its tandoori food. From kebabs and rotis to chicken and parathas, the city’s culinary identity is closely tied to the heat and smoke of the tandoor. But as air quality worsened through the winter, the Delhi government and the Delhi Pollution Control Committee ordered hotels, restaurants and open eateries to stop using coal and firewood in tandoors and switch to cleaner fuels like gas or electricity.
On the ground, reactions to the ban are mixed.
Many restaurant owners argue that a handful of eateries cannot be blamed for Delhi’s pollution crisis. Several point instead to old vehicles, lax enforcement and industrial emissions. “Rivers are full of pollution, cars are still running,” one vendor says. “First clean what stays on the ground. Smoke from a tandoor goes up and disperses.”
At the same time, others acknowledge that coal does add to dust and smoke. Some establishments have already moved to gas tandoors to avoid fines that can run into tens of thousands of rupees. For them, the choice is practical. “The law is above us,” a cook explains. “If switching reduces pollution, we should cooperate.”
The biggest concern, however, is taste. Chefs who have worked with coal-fired tandoors for decades say gas cannot replicate the smoky flavour that comes from wood and charcoal. Tamarind coal, slow heat and natural smoke, they argue, give kebabs their moisture and depth. Customers notice the difference. Several vendors say diners now eat less or complain that the food no longer tastes the same.
There are also economic fears. Gas tandoors are faster but require skilled labour. A job once done by a lower-paid worker now needs a trained cook, pushing up costs.
Still, a few restaurants are experimenting with workarounds, using stone layers inside gas tandoors to distribute heat more evenly and preserve flavour. They believe cleaner fuel and good taste do not have to be opposites.
Whether the coal ban will significantly improve Delhi’s air remains debated. But for the city’s food makers, it has already forced a difficult trade-off between tradition, livelihoods and the environment.
